Blog #9: New Hartford, NY to 52 Carruth St., Dorchester, MA July 24-July 27
Safe at Home!
In the months before our trip, I would often eat my breakfast on a laminated placemat with a map of the U.S. on it. I’d study it, trying to fathom what it was going to take to cover that ground. Wow, Montana is so big! How can we prepare for the Cascades and Rockies?! How will we get around those darn Great Lakes?! The scale and obstacles could seem overwhelming.
Several months later, as we lay in our motel room in Albany, NY about 200 miles from home I said to Josh, “You know what? We’re going to cross that placemat!” That’s right, all 16 inches of it!
And on Wednesday of last week, we did just that, and we were greeted enthusiastically both at my work in Cambridge and at the beach near Castle Island in South Boston. Referring back to the placemat is just one way I’ve tried to grasp what Josh and I accomplished together, one 80-mile day at a time over these last 2 months. The get-up-that-hill, get-to-our-next-break, get-to-our-motel mentality served us very well, but it makes it difficult now to appreciate the cumulative enormity of it. That will probably take some time.
In the meantime, Josh and I are very pleased to be home. The loving community we have here was so evident in the warm receptions we received upon our arrival. As the name of our ride – Riding for Home – underscored, we were riding both to end homelessness and to get ourselves to the home we are so fortunate to have. We were strongly motivated by both.
Our appreciation for home sunk in on the final two days of the ride, as we came into more familiar turf here in Massachusetts. I felt a certain pride over those last two beautiful days of riding, from the Berkshires all the way to the Boston Harbor, which was among the most beautiful stretches of the whole trip. It was also the most climbing we had done since the Rockies, 2,800 miles earlier.
We enjoyed our descent from the Berkshires into the Pioneer Valley and Northampton, where I had spent some formative years in the early 1980s. My brother Tim once astutely characterized the city and the region’s thriving but seemingly unsustainable economy as “a bunch of people making omelets for each other.” That formula still seems to be working, and Josh and I did our part with a hearty (and kind of pricey) breakfast at Jake’s, a favorite haunt of mine from yesteryear that is and was at the center of Northampton’s omelet cottage industry. To our delight, a 15-mile paved bike path has been constructed from Northampton through Amherst. Apparently, they’ve been busy out there these last 40 years – building bike paths and raising omelet prices!
It was also a pleasure riding through Central Massachusetts. Its unpretentious historic towns and diverse geography and landscapes are a very well-kept secret. Or at least until I just told you about it!
The Cambridge-to-the-beach-to-home-during-rush-hour portion of the trip was a little jarring. We haven’t seen that kind of traffic since we left 2 months ago. Being home is wonderful, but re-learning how to bicycle in Boston will take some doing.
Final Take-aways:
While there’s nothing revelatory about my observations and conclusions from the trip, here are some final take-aways:
Relentless effort over a substantial period of time can lead to great things.
While we literally powered ourselves across the country, nobody accomplishes anything impressive on their own, and Josh and I were no exception. We were the beneficiaries of (1) mostly favorable winds, (2) economic wherewithal to allow for good equipment, enough food, safe places to stay, etc., (3) Beth’s logistical and planning support, (4) Beth and Julian’s accessibility and moral support, (5) work colleagues who took a “we got this” approach to the important work of Just A Start, freeing me up to just ride across the country, (6) people we met along the way – both riders and more stationary people who encouraged, directed, and assisted us, (7) the organizations for whom we raised money inspired us, and (8) all of you who either kept up with us, thought about us and/or donated to our cause. We couldn’t have gotten across that placemat – I mean country – without all of that and more.
Josh grew up before my eyes. He wasn’t tagging along reluctantly or just along for the ride. He was a leader on this trip. We’d still be somewhere in Ontario had we relied on me to navigate. I may have succumbed to hypothermia in Montana were he not there to get me into a tent and sleeping bag as chilly 40 MPH winds howled all around us. He developed our logo, webpage and took charge of our social media communication. He had his moments – and so did I – but Josh was an amazing partner. We learned a lot from each other. More precisely, I learned a lot from Josh and once the things I said to him repeatedly sink in, Josh will be the better for it.
A safe, warm (or cool), stable home is essential. We felt that every evening as we settled into our accommodations for the night and all along the trip. That was reinforced by the various people we met who opened up to us about their challenges maintaining a safe place to live. Everyone needs and deserves that.
This is a beautiful country despite how we’ve screwed it up with our arrogance and carelessness. An acquaintance of mine once said, “If we were tenants on earth, we wouldn’t get back our security deposit.” We should do everything we can not to screw it up further. On that subject, from my observation, Canada is generating way more renewable energy than is the U.S. If it would be helpful, I can suggest some good spots in Montana and North Dakota for windmills. For example, Sand Springs, Montana, where our tent was nearly lifted from the ground and blown into North Dakota, might be a good spot.
Most of the towns and small cities we traveled through seemed to have seen their better days. I could be wrong about that, but we saw a lot of poverty, abandoned properties, shuttered businesses, and struggling downtowns. Having devoted my career to community development, I couldn’t help but think that some well-placed nonprofit community development corporations could really make a difference.
With only a very few exceptions, people we met were kind to us, and were impressed and enthusiastic about our trip. Somehow that coexists with a lot of evident anger, hostility, intolerance, and vulgarity as communicated on tee shirts, signs, flags and baseball hats that we saw. I’ll leave it to someone else to explain that dichotomy.
West-to-east is definitely the way to ride across the country.
If you’re looking for a cost-effective way to get from Washington State to Boston, bicycling – at least not in the credit card-wielding fashion that we did – is not your best option. Taking a cab would definitely be cheaper.
Josh and I just didn’t get along with Michigan, and the feeling seemed to be mutual. It’s not personal. It just wasn’t a good fit.
If we cycle across a nation again, I may opt for something narrower. Perhaps Chile.
Stats for the trip:
Total mileage: 3,551 (approximately 500 miles on bike trails, 30 miles on dirt roads, 15 miles on Interstate 94. Plus 13 miles via ferry and 5.5 miles in a pick-up truck courtesy of a kind road construction worker in Montana named Ryan who transported us through a road construction zone.)
Average daily mileage: 79
Number of states and provinces: 9 states, one Canadian province
Money raised for our causes: $16,438 to date
Awards
Food:
- Best Meal: Mi Pueblo Mexican Restaurant, Priest River, ID (Carl); 5 Guys, Bismarck, ND (Josh). We don’t have expensive tastes.
- Best Pizza: Union Pizza & Brewing Co., Fergus Falls, MN
- Best Club Sandwich: Scottie’s Log Bar, Royalton, MN
- Most Offensive Restaurant Décor Scottie’s Log Bar, Royalton, MN (including life-size poster of Trump’s head on Rambo’s machine-toting body)
- Best pastries, scones, etc.: Mazama Market, Mazama, WA
Accommodations:
- Cheapest motels: $46 - Sall-Mar Motel, Rapid River, MI (no A.C.). Runner up: $50 - “Eddie’s Corner”, Moore, MT (no windows)
- Most expensive campsite: $65 – 5 Lakes Campground, West Glacier, MT
- Cheapest campsites: Free – North Cascade, WA; Dutton, MT; Sand Springs, MT; Enderlin, ND; Stone Lake, WI; and Princeton, MA
- Best view at overnight stays: Marion Lake, Minocqua, WI. Runner up: private campground west of Heron, MT
Best bicycle infrastructure: NY State’s Erie Canal Bike Trail
Most beautiful state: Montana. Runner-up: Massachusetts
Scariest moments:
- Carl’s near hypothermia, Sand Spring, MT (Josh to the rescue with quick tent and sleeping bag set up)
- Wind nearly taking our tents away the next morning in Sand Spring, MT
- Josh crashing into a pole near Indian River, MI
Biggest disappointment: Glacier National Park’s Going-to-the-Sun Road – our planned crossing of the Rockies - was still closed due to snow. (It actually snowed there 2 days after we crossed on the alternative route!)
Most pleasant surprise: We worried that the plains – North Dakota, in particular – would be monotonous but it was very pretty. Even the Lawrence Welk Highway (that’s a real thing) was interesting – more so than his music!
Sharing a Poem about Riding for Home!
A cross-country ride was on my bucket list
“Let’s do it,” Josh said. I couldn’t resist.
With Beth’s help we planned all winter long
With planning like that, what could go wrong?
Well a lot can go wrong, like heat, cold and rain
Freak mountain storms and severe muscle strain!
Dehydration, hypothermia and no safe place to stay!
But we agreed, what the hell, let’s ride anyway
As we pushed our 70-pound bikes up that Puget Sound beach
I thought, will this be impossible or merely a reach?
Call us courageous or just plain naïve
But off we went, it was time to leave
On the second day we met the mighty Cascades
With 20-mile climbs at 5% grades
The descents on the other side, they made me cower
Not Josh, he took them on at 50 miles per hour
We thought the Rockies were tougher, but they really were not
In fact, I said as we scaled them “Is that all you’ve got!?”
Josh did that one better, which made me amused
When he proclaimed that the Rockies were actually fake news
We thanked the tailwinds on the western plains
And looked for cover whenever it rained
And spare me the stats on elevation gain
To know the mountain we just climbed was a pain
But this whole undertaking was not nearly as hard
Traveling as we were with a credit card
About twice a week, we’d sleep in a tent
The rest of the week motel rooms we would rent
There were joyful days, full of awe and of smiles
And others when we painfully counted the miles
The trip was mostly a gotta-make-the-donuts grind
Less about body and more about mind
There were days we wished the U.S. weren’t quite so wide
But every day of the week, we’d eat, sleep and ride
It was less an athletic feat than a matter of will
That got us to the top of every damned hill
We’d remind ourselves, it’s a ride not a race
So, we could see the nation at a cyclist’s pace
We took in America, its flaws and its glory
We took its pulse and heard its stories
We and Michigan did not get along
Some other time I’ll recount all that went wrong
Josh crashed into a poll and got his only flat
I suppose it’s unfair to blame Michigan for all that
That was just bad luck and luck will vary
But still we were pleased to escape to Ontario by ferry
If nothing else the banners saying Fuck You! to Joe
Morphed into a variation that said Fuck Justin Trudeau
After 7 weeks on Red turf on this cycling trip
I can’t claim to know what makes these places tick
But from the vulgar signs and flags I can tell
That some of these folks are angry as hell
It could be that these towns around which their cattle graze
Are in decline and have seen better days
Which makes locals receptive to a charlatan
Who says “Let’s Make America Great Again!”
Despite this anger, Josh and I did find
That those we met were supportive and kind
They were impressed and moved, and without any pause
They gave us water, directions and cash for our cause
In addition to locals, we also befriended
Many long-distance riders before our trip ended
Some were headed west, while others went east
One with just one speed - oh my, what a beast!
In my blog you probably read
About our new cycling friends, Randy and Ed
And we met Christian and Mason on our second day
And in Montana our and their tents almost blew away
In New York we rode with a sommelier named Rodrigo
Who was riding to Maine from San Diego
And we were humbled during the trip’s early days
By the older recumbent riders named Jim and Kay
Meanwhile Just A Start did not miss a beat
Under Gerry’s leadership on Cambridge Street
A few weeks in I thought One thing I don’t get
Is why they don’t seem to miss me yet
With the governor, Miriam shared the stage
And I learned of new partners that Carmen engaged
In a notable email Noah Sawyer disclosed
That Ridge Commons’ financing had finally closed!
At 2000 miles, we took a much-needed break
At our beloved spot on Marion Lake
With Beth and Julian, we reunited
About which Josh and I were delighted
We hung out with family, which was to our liking
And took a reprieve from all of our biking
We then set back out rejuvenated
For the thousand plus miles that still awaited
And I did this all with my eldest son
Which was intense, unforgettable and a whole lot of fun
As he’d blow by me, I’d feel so satisfied
That just a few years ago I taught him how to ride
Sure, he can be stubborn and moody too
But I think that’s just what teenagers do
He’s just 18, but that age belies
Maturity I’ve witnessed grow before my eyes
As for me, I would get flustered and also quite stressed
So at key moments on the trip I was not at my best
I steered us wrong frequently over Josh’s objections
Where I caused much anguish with my poor sense of direction
A safe home for all was our motivation
No one should be homeless in our wealthy nation
I hope our cross-country ride will help to inspire
Donations from you, as I preach to the choir
After this 2-month-long cycling endeavor
Josh and I appreciate home more than ever
When we settled back at home on that first night
We thought, a home like this is everyone’s right
We made it across the laminated placemat!
Almost home!
Hancock Shaker Village near Pittsfield, MA
Jake’s, at the center of Northampton’s omelet ecosystem.
A farm in Bolton, MA
Wind turbines in Ontario.
Main Street in Glen Ullin, North Dakota. All that’s missing is the tumbleweed.
$46 gets you a room for the night at the Sall-Mar Motel in Rapid River, Michigan. BYO air conditioner. Someone queue up Roger Miller singing “King of the Road”.
$65 gets you a 30’x30’ piece of ground with a picnic table at 5 Lakes campground in West Glacier, MT.
We woke up to Marion Lake for over a week during our hiatus in Minocqua, Wisconsin.
Another winning view from our campsite in western Montana.
New York State’s Erie Canal trail runs from Niagara Falls to Albany.
40 MPH winds in Sand Spring, MT nearly blew us to North Dakota!
